Saturday, August 31, 2002

It’s just after one in the morning so it still really feels like Friday night.

Freddie and I are leisurely blending into the swing of Sevilla. The days are warm but not stiflingly hot like they can be. The nights are also warm and sometimes fresquita, a little brisk. People welcome us back.

When we arrived in Sevilla last Wednesday afternoon, Concha and Rafael met us at the airport. Concha, her thick, black, curly hair pulled off her neck in a low ponytail, was wearing a black sleeveless blouse and her black pants with the colored rhinestone sandals I had given her when she, Rafael and their three children came to stay with us for two months this summer. Rafael, tall and elegant with his gray hair, couldn’t wear the hat of Freddie’s that he had loved so much that Freddie sent it home with him. He had left it in his new condo in Sanlucar. But he had on his new belt from California and his San Jose tee shirt gifted to him by Carmen Callahan. They both welcomed us with open arms and excited hugs. What a joy to see their smiling faces, to be welcomed by our friends who have become family.

I am sitting here tonight in our new apartment on Calle Cano y Cueto, at La Puerta de la Carne in Sevilla, Spain beginning to write of the already wonderful time unfolding here, on my new slim, high power laptop computer. Our small piso (apartment) has a white living room and bedroom with balconies opening out to the street. The shutters and the furniture are a golden and grainy wood; the curtains are white lace. Large, artfully, well placed full length, wide mirrors make the place seem bigger. The small tiled and wooden kitchen is off the living room, away from the street. It is defined by a fake granite counter top over wooden cabinets to the left, and an opening to the right of it to walk through. On the right of the walkway, coming out from the wall, the edge of the refrigerator looks like a wood paneled door. As you walk through to the kitchen, you see the washing machine, and then to the right the sink. Turn to the right and the stove is there next to the refrigerator. We are slowly shopping for supplies. But when we arrived here with Concha and Rafael, Carmen Malpartida and her husband Alberto Moreno, our new landlords, were waiting for us. They hospitably showed us around and explained the many keys and the alarm, which is set at night, and how the gas turned on and off and many other things, although we were a little too jet lagged to remember it all. We have known Carmen for several years. She is a dance student of Concha’s as well as Concha’s friend and also a friend of Paco Lira’s. Carmen and Alberto were at our actuacion (show) here last December. We have also e-mailed each other regarding Concha’s arrangements during the year.

So when Freddie and I decided to try something new this year in Sevilla, Concha thought of Carmen’s rental apartment. Carmen’s prior rental arrangement had just fallen through and she was gracious enough to rent it to us for a very reasonable price. As we have been settling into to the apartment, I have begun to appreciate all the little things Carmen has left here to make life easy. I see that she is a thoughtful and considerate person. But I digress.

That day we arrived, after our apartment tour and instructions, Rafael and Concha opened our refrigerator door. Inside were their gifts. Rafael had cooked a huge pot of delicious chicken for us, chicken Solea, because that is what he sang when he cooked it. Concha had made us a huge tub of gazpacho, the Spanish summer soup served cold, which we adore. Carmen had put cold water in a bottle in the refrigerator and there were enough supplies, like toilet paper, dish soap, matches and salt that we could start stocking and arranging it more slowly. Later that day Ryan and Christine came by with the things we had stored from last year at La Carboneria. That was nice. What wonderful friends we have here. How thoughtful they are. Now we are starting to relax into the pace of Sevilla. We walk to dinner late in the balmy evenings enjoying the same familiar little streets. We have remembered how to get to more places each year.

Yesterday (Thursday) Concha and Rafael and the kids went to their new piso (condo) in Sanlucar to pick out the fixtures for their kitchen sink and to try to get the electricity and water finally turned on. They were successful with the water and perhaps will get lights tomorrow. They are returning home to Sevilla sometime tomorrow and Concha will start classes on Monday, September 2. We have talked to them every day by phone.

Yesterday in Sevilla Paco Lira, our friend and host for the last three years when we stayed at La Carboneria,, walked with us to the famous guitar maker Francisco Barba. Freddie bought a cheap but wonderful guitar from him to play and then leave in Spain, stored for next year. This happened because Freddie was told by British Air that he could not bring his guitar on the plane with him because it was too long. So rather than ship it with the cargo and risk it being shattered, he left it at home. After we bought the guitar yesterday, Paco invited Barba to go for coffee with us. He went with us, but for a drink of juice because he has been off coffee for three months on the doctor’s orders. Paco doesn’t drink coffee either, just milk and cocoa.. Barba and Paco are old friends and I could see that they enjoyed seeing each other again. Each has a busy, full life and they probably don’t have time to see each other much. Each is aging. I could see the respect there for each other too. Each is in the top of what he has chosen to do, an artist in his own right; and they are old friends.

So it worked beautifully for Freddie to leave his guitar at home. Today when we went to pick up Freddie’s new guitar from the shop, Barba told us that he is going on vacation for a month on the first. It is a good thing that we didn’t procrastinate. And Freddie’s new guitar is nice. He has to wait to play it until the tap plate, which Barba just put on, dries and so has borrowed a guitar of Ryan’s for a few days.

We went grocery shopping this morning at the MAS supermarket with Rubina today. She helped us identify and choose our groceries and carry our plastic bags of groceries home. Freddie is ecstatic about having his own kitchen.

Antonio and Mercedes, the owners of one of our favorite restaurants, El Cordobes, invited us for dinner last night. They and their waiters are such nice people. For several years now they have given us a dinner when we arrived and another when we leave. I have never had that happen even once in the States!

Saturday, August 31, 2002

Last night Ryan and Christine took us to their new favorite restaurant, a Bodega known for their incredible meats. It was a real treat. Today Rubina has brought over a larger coffee pot we can use because she now has an electric one. The Spanish coffee pots are metal and percolate and you heat them up on the stove. We made our first coffee here this afternoon. The baked potatoes have just come out of the oven.

Saturday, September 7, 2002 but still the evening of Friday, September 6

I can’t believe it is already a week since I last wrote. The Bienal has started as have my classes with Concha, so now the days and nights are full. However, we have managed to get a phone in our apartment as of today, thanks to Alberto’s help. 011-34-954-411-454. The phone/answering machine comes with the service.

Tuesday, September 10, 2002 but still the evening of Monday, September 9

Ryan says that Pisco (one of Paco’s sons) says, “ The Carboneria seems like a rocky boat, constantly unstable, where you have no idea how it functions properly or how you can get anything done, but meanwhile it functions beautifully, because what it really is is the old definition of what a tavern is, a meeting place — a place for people to meet and interact, a place for people to communicate, to open up possibilities, but meanwhile you are still on that rocky boat. It is right in front of your face, but you have to open up your eyes to see what is going on.”

Wednesday September 18, 2002

We’ve been with Concha and Rafael and Curro and Carmen and Concha’s widowed sister-in-law Frasqui and her twelve year old daughter Conchita to Sanlucar, to the piso (condo) that Concha bought in this little beach town known for its good food.

We’ve also all been La Feria de Lebrija and hung out in the two Gypsy casetas (tents) there, eating and drinking and watching the Gypsies of Lebrija dance and sing until just before dawn. Then, like always, we end the night with churros (long, greasy, doughnut-like pastries) dunked in paper cups of hot chocolate. Then back to Frasqui’s house in Lebrija to sleep.

Here in Sevilla magic happens too. Ryan was over tonight when Raul, the guitarist for Farruquito, was over here playing guitar incredibly, his long nailed, long fingers flying over the strings, so beautifully, so deeply, so strongly. He plays with technique and soul and is only 23 years old (married and with a child). He started playing when he was 7. He used to hang around the Carboneria in past years and we sort of knew him from there, but today Luisito, our young Gypsy singer/dancer-of the-old-style/palmero friend, invited him to stop by here. We hang out with Luisito a lot. We had a great time tonight and we really like Raul. Raul played until the downstairs neighbor came to our door because of the feet on the floor. We hadn’t realized that they could hear us —One disadvantage of an apartment. But at the Carboneria we couldn’t invite these young Gypsies upstairs because it invaded Paco’s personal space. But here we have the capability of entertaining, as we do at home. So people are always here visiting and doing Flamenco. When they are below our balcony, they call us: Freddie, Marianna, and we press the buzzer for the downstairs front door and the wrought iron gate and they come in, looking at the fountain in the tiled courtyard and then up the marble circular stair case to our door at one B, which is really the second floor in American terms.

Luisito has said that Juan “Farruquito” is a good friend of his too and is really a special person. We haven’t met him yet. But it seems as though we will. (Ryan and Christine also have met Farruquito and have also said that he is a very special and spiritual person.) I asked Raul tonight what he would want when he comes to Santa Cruz in February with Farruquito and Juana Amaya and their group, and he said, “Dinner”. So he will talk to the group and perhaps about 14 will come for dinner at our home in Santa Cruz after the show! That should be fun!!! Raul is trying to think of a way to bring Luisito to California with them and thinks that Luisito could/should give a workshop in the old style of Gypsy dancing, a la Anzonini and Miguel Funi (two of Luisito’s major idols). He is one of the few young Gypsies here who are enamoured of the old style of Flamenco. I told Raul that if his group endorsed Luisito, probably people would take from him. Luisito would need to make enough money to cover his plane ticket. I don’t know if that will happen. But he is a lovely person. He has taken Freddie to the doctor and has helped him shop. He lent us a wonderful Flamenco video and will lend us others too. He loves Flamenco, especially the old style. He sings sometimes when Freddie plays guitar here. Although he dances a little, he always encourages me to dance and loves the way we love Flamenco. Although now I will have to be aware of the neighbors when I dance, even lightly, on these cool white marble floors. Freddie and I are old enough to be these guys’ grandparents!!!!

I’ll write more after I see them all perform in the Bienal on the 29th of September. But just hearing Raul play tonight and knowing that Farruquito is considered by many to be the best young male dancer in Spain, and that Juana Amaya is considered to be a wonderful dancer put me in awe that they will be in California in February, both in Berkely and even in Santa Cruz! Spain is coming to Santa Cruz, our vision of what Freddie and I want to do with our Flamenco Romntico Academy of Gypsy Flamenco Arts.

Monday shortly before my first dance class of the day I slipped on some wet cobblestones and fell down. I took my class although my leg hurt. Towards the middle of my second class my thigh was still hurting. Then I moved my leg the wrong way; I kicked up and out as I do in this step and it hurt too much. Concha stopped my class and said, “We’re going to Salvadore after I finish my group class.” Then she called Salvador, the magic massage-but-more practitioner to the Sevilla soccer team and the top Flamenco dance artists, like Concha, Manuela Carrasco, Farruquito, Remedios Amaya and many others. Concha and Rafael, my wonderful friends, drove me there after Concha’s class, in their beautiful and useful new car. I was crying from pain and fear when I limped in. I could hardly walk. I had torn a muscle in my thigh.

Luisito had taken Freddie to Salvador two times already the week before for Freddie’s back. Now Freddie and I have 2 appointments/week together. I have gone for the last 3 days and Salvador is helping me a lot. Now I can walk again. I am taking gentle dance classes, including doing palmas and upper body. I have been doing footwork very lightly and this has turned out to be a blessing, because with my new body posture, my footwork sounds great. It is clean and clear and accented, but light and gentle and easy, as I care for my leg. Yes I am still taking class, but am babying my leg until it heals. I go to Salvador again tomorrow with Freddie.

I have to get out and send the sparse writing I’ve already done, because too much is happening. Having our own apartment means company every night and I don’t have as much time to write or to watch my class videos as I did the other years. But nights like tonight are unforgettable and why we’re here too.

And you should see what Concha is doing to my dance style. It is incredibly different already!!!!

I’m writing today instead of watching my today’s class video.

SPAIN CHRONICLES 2002

Aug 31 – Sept 18 Writings & Photos
Sept 21 – Oct 6 Writings & Photos
Oct 7 – Nov 15 Writings & Photos
Freddie is very ill, but doing better!

Update on Freddie’s Health, Jan 14, 2003