Click on photo below to see as larger picture.![]() ![]() ![]() Sept 22 - Freddie and Cordobes Jose. ![]() ![]() ![]() Sept 30 - Rubina and Bobby in our room. ![]() Rubina in our room ![]() September 30 - Ryan & Christine in our room. ![]() ![]() Back to Spain Index Back Home E-mail us |
Spain Chronicles 2001September, October WritingsSeptember, 2001 (after September 11)
I journeyed (for more explanation of the Shamanic journey, please see writing on my web site) after I heard the news. It was late afternoon here in Sevilla and it had just happened. I was planning on napping, but as I came down the stairs from our room to use the bathroom first, everyone asked us if we had heard the news. I called to Freddie and we went into Pacos room to watch the news in Spanish. And we couldnt believe it, but we kept seeing it on the television, like a bad science fiction movie, only it was real. After calling my son in Hamilton, New York (Colgate University) and my sister in Palo Alto from Pacos phone, I went back upstairs and journeyed for all the people who had died or/and were in pain. I spent the whole time with my soul retrieval power animal directing lost/stunned/bewildered souls to the light. There was such chaos at so many suddenly and traumatically leaving their bodies. Every time I would get distracted my power animal would bring me back saying, Help them to the light. There were so many. I felt like a traffic director. My e-mail shamanic journey group has scheduled a group journey (non-ordinary reality) on Saturday but I might miss it because Ill be at the Jerez Fiesta de Bulera (Spain). But I might journey on Friday, although I am nine hours ahead of California here in Sevilla. Or, perhaps I will do it on Sunday which would be Saturday night over there. What a shocking situation. I am hearing most of it in Spanish. Thats all the news thats been on TV. There are two US military bases here in Spain, both in Southern Spain, in the small towns of Rota and Moron (famous for its Flamenco in the 60s and being the home of Diego del Gastor, an incredible guitarist whose legacy still lives on long after his death.) Both these small Spanish towns are now on red alert and no one can enter or leave the US bases there. The people here are in shock and of course also fear a world war. Its still hard to believe, except that we are continually seeing video of the planes crashing into the world trade center and their aftermath on the news. My e-mail, which is finally hooked up and ready, is now filled with messages dealing with this tragedy. I have forwarded a Seven days of prayer article on how we have to try to change the world with our positive thoughts to many people because I just read it and I felt that it had helped focus me and would help others. Later I forwarded a moving piece written by an Afghani American man. This letter talked of the innocent Afghanis who would be killed if Bush bombs them. But the culprits who did this would probably escape. He claims that the only way to get them is through a ground war, but this would probably start a war with Pakistan leading to a world war which is what Bin Laden wants. Apparently Bin Laden thinks he will win and it is his holy war. Ah Nostradamas. September 18, 2001
I understand that there is fear in the world now and that many people want to de-escalate that fear and to focus on peace. I agree with that. When I sent my sister suggestions of an antibiotic to buy and keep in case of germ warfare, she wrote that she wished I hadnt sent it because she felt it fostered fear. I agree with my sister that we should not foster fear. Nevertheless, I think we should all put this in our medicine cabinets just in case, because it is easy to do and if germ warfare does happen, we will be prepared. Hopefully mankind will not be that stupid and mean. But obtaining the medicine now is like earthquake preparation or vaccinations. Hopefully we will never have to use it. I dont really know what is happening in the US in terms of mass psyche. Of course, I do not trust Bush one bit, and he could fall into the trap of war easily, but hopefully he wont. I am trying to send out all my positivity and not get sucked in by negativity, especially in these trying times. September 18, 2001
We went to the Feria de Utrera with Concha and her husband Rafael and Rubina and we saw Miguel Funi dance. This is a town fair where the there are rows of Casetas, brightly decorated, open tents making a little town with dirt roads and brightly colored lights. Inside they serve food and drink and sometimes present shows. They are sponsored by both private people (the very rich) and organizations. There are photos of the ferias of Jerez and Sanlucar on our web site in the Spain photos in 1999. On September 15 went to the Fiesta de Bulera in Jerez with the same people. This fiesta took place in the bull ring and had non-stop Flamenco until the hours of the morning before the sun came up. It was only OK. Both events were all nighters (no sleep) and so we are still tired. The electricity just went off here as I write, so I have to check on it. September 19, 2001
September 22, 2001
Conchas brother is in the hospital with heart problems and apparently he has taken a turn for the worse today. She is very concerned and is at the hospital with him now as I write. We have decided not to buy our piso in Sanlucar because of the money situation at home, the market being down and the exchange rate here falling for us. Things seem just too uncertain to make that kind of a commitment now. We went to look at the half finished building last Saturday before we went to the Festival de Bulera in Jerez. It would have been nice to have a piso next to Concha and Rafael, but the world situation and our economic uncertainty is making us think twice about spending money. We would both rather spend it on classes. September 24, 2001
We are thinking about where we want to spend the war, if it comes to that. I will journey on it. At the moment, Freddie wants to come home. His mother Bea and my father Jack are both eighty two years old and that would be the draw to come home. We dont want to be trapped somewhere due to war, so we have to think it through. I dont want to cut our trip short, but that comes from emotion, not from thought. We are facing the fact that we might be involved in a real war very soon and we have to do some thinking about it. How awful. I am worried about our home in California because if we lose electricity, we lose the ability to pump water from our well and therefore have no water. So far, solar energy for this has proved extremely expensive (about $100,000 for an adequate system). Just thoughts. Here is certainly history in the making. September 26, 2001
September 29, 2001
But, since I have stepped up my classes, my legs have gotten tired. Where I used to bound up the stairs to our room, even when I was sick, now, as I remember doing last year and the year before, I sometimes have to pull myself up because I thighs are rebelling. I am becoming very emotional again, as I also did last year. Last year I thought it was menopause hormone reactions returning. Now I wonder if it is just such an overwhelming amount of new information I am taking in at all levels. I am trying too hard and then I see a video of myself and get discouraged. Although, the video of yesterdays classes actually looked good. There is pouring rain and thunder outside as I sit here writing this Saturday morning. There are no classes this weekend because Conchas brother Rafael is still in the hospital, probably dying. Upon request, I did a journey for him last week and he stabilized. I saw how much he did not want to die, this young man of forty eight years. But I think he is dying. Concha says he is medicated and swollen. I saw the bright light and Conchas father standing there waiting for him. Before I journeyed he was thrashing around. I saw in the journey that it was his way of fighting death. But the doctors were afraid that he would bring on a heart attack and so he is very medicated. Concha had to drag his wife Frackie home to her house to sleep after she stayed six days without sleeping in the hospital. The family will spend the weekend again in the hospital. Freddie and I have been practicing with Rubina a lot. She is a good influence and gets me downstairs and onto the stage. She is very supportive and encouraging. She herself is dancing better and better. She performs here at La Carboneria three nights a week and the audience loves her. She is in Conchas technique class with me. Yesterday evening Rubina and I went shopping. Calle Sierpes, the fancy car-less shopping street in the middle of Sevilla, is all dirt right now, with a deep hole running down the middle. They are doing construction, probably sewers, and it looks like something out of the old west. Many of the connecting side streets are also dug up dirt right now, with planks for people to cross the street to the other stores and thin dirt paths along each side of the hole which runs down the middle of the street. Calle Sierpes certainly doesnt look as fancy right now as it used to, but in the evenings, it is still filled with people strolling and shopping. It is always very festive on the streets of Sevilla during the evening shopping hours. Stores re-open, after the siesta time, at five or six oclock and close again between eight thirty and nine. Just before nine we went to Corte Ingles, the big, famous department store in Plaza Duque and I bought a non-electric portable water purifier. When we left the store, the rain had started pouring again so we looked for a taxi. In a moment of optimism in spite of the warm humidity, Rubina hadnt taken her rain coat. We were lucky and found a taxi fairly quickly, but it took a long time to get home, because rain at nine in Spain in the evening means rush hour and the traffic hardly moved. We finally had to get out near La Carboneria and walk because we were tired of sitting in the taxi and going nowhere. September 30, 2001 - La Familia de La Carboneria
I have wanted to write more of the people here. These are the people of Pacos world, the people who live or have lived at La Carboneria, the people who work at the Carboneria, the people who live and work in Sevilla. The other night Alexi, who just returned from a trip home to Italy, was playing the violin with Carlos group. The musical interaction between the Alexi and Carlos was intense and exciting. Alexis maroon velevet coat flaired out above his white shirt like a symbol of his musical abandon. I watched his thin face outlined with his brown red beard and long stringy hair pulled back showing the small gold earring in his right ear, and I thought about the novels I have read in my life describing artists of other generations. I want to describe the artists of this generation, this wonderful and exciting time period that will someday be history. The characters who play their parts in today deserve to be immortalized as did, for example, the characters described by Henry Miller and Anais Nin. XParis in the thirties, Sevilla in the 2000s the artists continue through the generations. And so Alexi caught my imagination and linked these generations for me. The passion on Alexis face when he leans into his violin looks almost religious. His long fingers seem to pray as they dance from string to string, his bow crying and singing the music with the smoothness of wind, the wind from the heavens, fast or slow, intensity changing, but always flowing from its supernatural source. I wrote about Alexi the Italian last year too. He lives with Elisabeth from the midwest USA and they had our upstairs room here last year. They have just found their own apartment now in Sevilla that they will share with Alexis mother and her boyfriend. His mother is a painter and Concha has one of her paintings in her apartment. The painting is of a group of musicians, one of which is Alexi. I think Alexi looks a little like Christ in it, as he does when he plays his violin. Although, there are times when he plays that the music brings a beautiful smile of ecstasy that I dont associate with Christ, but it is definitely a spiritual reaction to the music. Christine, Ryans girlfriend, told me that Alexi grew up in a tiny village overlooking the sea in Italy. He dreamed of musical instruments and as a child would pretend he was playing them. He had the soul of a musician and fortunately it is realized. Christine told me she has had long, wonderful talks with Alexi when they were both living at La Carboneria. I first heard about Christine last year when Ryan was telling us about this wonderful woman he had met here and who was waiting for him in San Francisco. Ryan is a young American Flamenco guitarist who had studied first with Chris Carnes (see our memorial to Chris Carnes on our web site). He has come to La Carboneria to stay many different times. I wrote about him last year. Like us, he studies and practices his music all the time. Here he studies guitar with Juan del Gastor, a nephew of the famous and immortalized guitar master Diego del Gastor of Moron. Last year when we were here, Ryan went off to San Francisco to see if Christine really was the love of his life. Freddie and I grilled him like parents on right relationships, saying, If your music gets better then it is good, but if you play less music or it gets worse, get out of the relationship. And Ryan listened to us and remembered. And of course his music got better and he and Christine sold everything they owned and returned to Spain and La Carboneria for at least a year. And so we finally met Christine. Her tall, slender body and straight brown hair and pretty face give her a look of innocence. Her subtle nose ring and her belly button ring link her to the younger generation. She is thirty, a little older than Ryan. Before she met Ryan, she had been living in Tokyo for a year painting and writing. That summer Christine and her sister had decided to travel through Europe and in a wonderful story that Christine needs to write, she was led to meet Ryan at the Carmela Alta Mira cafe where we always have coffee. She saw a bright aura surrounding Ryan and the thought came to her that this would be her husband! She and Ryan hit it off and he brought her to La Carboneria to hear Flamenco and of course he played guitar for her. She said she was also attracted to how handsome he was, his dark, curly hair and face so neatly cared for, his body slim and fit. And then they shared a common spirituality together as well. When I met Christine I felt as if Freddie and I had already known her for years. And to us, she seems perfect for Ryan. It is wonderful to see the younger generation carrying on the Bohemian, artist life style. It makes me understand Pacos visitors even more. Paco is almost eighty and is like us. Christine and Ryan are much younger and they are like us. There is a feeling of continuation here, the immortality of the generations continuing, (as long as we dont blow up the entire world). In the days on the patio I see Ryan practicing his guitar and Christine, with her lap top computer like mine, sitting next to him writing. She has already learned good Flamenco palmas and is poised to start dancing. But she has the feeling that she will be hooked, and so is trying to finish some writing and painting projects before she dives into the dance. I have a feeling that she will be very good. September 30, 2001
Richard Black, here from Santa Cruz for two weeks and Bobby El Poni, another friend who has been living in Jerez this last year, came to visit today with two visitors from New Zealand who Richard met from the Flamenco List. It was nice to see our two old friends from Santa Cruz here in Spain and to meet their new friends. We visited with Bobby here last year too when he was living in Sevilla. Photos are on the web site in Spain 2000. October 2, 2001
I havent yet described Francois the tall, blond French German who plays beautiful classical guitar in the patio garden, or Pola who sings Pedro Bacan Lebrija Flamenco style Romances and like to cook. He might be cooking for us and Paco and Marta up on our verandah. He cooked a beautiful meal today for lunch down on the patio. October 4, 2001
October 7, 2001 Sunday
The funeral was the next day in Lebrija. We did not go because we were in Sanlucar and also because I think the funeral was a more family affair. It was about saying good bye to the brother. At the hospital we were there to support Concha. And we did. That Friday night we did not attend any of the dancing at la Carboneria. We were drained and we knew that we had to get up early the next day to catch the bus at ten AM at the bus station. Very early (by our standards) Saturday morning Freddie, Rubina, and I took the bus in the pouring rain to Sanlucar to get our deposits back from the piso we decided not to buy because of the world situation. The realtor, Paco Ibaez, met us at the bus station when we called on our movi to tell him we had arrived. We signed the release papers and picked up our waiting checks. We were lucky and grateful to get our money back. After completing our business, we briefly explored Sanlucar, stepping between large puddles of rain on the uneven streets, wet and tired, as the stores were closing for siesta and the rest of the weekend. We stopped for coffee to rest Freddies foot. Then we continued on, by bus, to Jerez, a half hour away. There we visited our old friend from Santa Cruz, Bobby el Poni, who has been living in Jerez, studying guitar, singing and dancing all year. That evening we went to a Pea there (a community Flamenco club) where we saw Chocolate sing to the guitar of Antonio Carrion. Chocolate, his small brown gypsy face now creased with wrinkles, is a famous and wonderful singer from Jerez. He is now in his seventies but he still sings beautifully and movingly, although his voice has lost some of its earlier strength. He was a treat to listen to and Antonio Carrion accompanied him beautifully and sensitively. Chocolate sang soulful Siguiriyas and I enjoyed him even more this time than I did when we heard him at the Flamenco Bienal here last year. We spent the night at a small, somewhat dirty Hostel near Bobbys house. The next morning the sun came out and we walked around Jerez and had coffee and ate lunch before catching the two thirty bus back to Sevilla. We arrived back at La Carboneria at four PM Sunday and rested for a while. Rubina borrowed a pair of Freddies shorts and went out on our balcony to sun bathe. I tried to sleep. Freddie practiced guitar. That night on our way out to dinner, we stopped to see Paco who was in his room, as we usually do when he is upstairs. While saying hello to Paco, who is still in bed with a bad cold, we heard news of the bombings. He was watching it on his television. As I have said before, Paco is always up on the news. He watches it on the television, listens to it on the radio, and reads the papers. We left for dinner before anything was confirmed. On the way to El Cordobes we met Becca and she joined us. Later, during dinner the waiters told us that the US and Britain did indeed bomb Afghanistan and then they turned on the news on their television. Tears started from my eyes and I lost my appetite. We returned to La Carboneria, checked in with Paco and the news, and then proceeded upstairs and got on the internet for the BBC news in English. We lit a candle for all the people who have died and/or are suffering. I didnt feel like dancing anymore after hearing the news. When I thought about my reaction I asked myself why not dance for the world, rather than cry. So, before I danced tonight, I decided to dance for all the people who are suffering right now. I want to bring joy and I offer my dance as a prayer, a healing prayer for all those who need it. Then I went downstairs and did Sevillanas with Rubina at the end of her show and it was fun. Rayhanas Middle Eastern dance, (she is part of the Armenian group) and the Armenian music followed the Flamenco show. During her dance, Rayhana pulled me up on stage and we danced together. That was fun too. I havent done Middle Eastern dance in a while, but my twenty five years of experience with it has made it a part of me; and it felt good to do it again. People said it looked very natural, and it has always felt more natural to me than Flamenco. Flamenco I have to learn in this life; Middle Eastern seems to come from an inner knowing, although of course I took many years of classes. But now is my time for Flamenco. Flamenco is teaching me emotional lessons as well as dance. For Flamenco one must like oneself and believe in oneself. One must react with strength and not crumple. Flamenco makes me tune into my strong parts as well as my soft parts. There is an attitude of self acceptance and confidence that I must feel and express to dance well. Dancing Flamenco is making me grow emotionally and I love it. Rayhana and Souren have moved into Luis and Rubinas old room, Liz and Alexis room last year, across from the bathroom. Marta had been staying there for the last two weeks, but now she is staying outside the Carboneria and Rayhana and Souren have given up their temporary hotel to join the rest of their group living here at La Carboneria. Before there was no space for a couple so they had to take a room in a hostel. It is part of their contract that they stay here and what they had expected to do. They are nice people. We are a lot of Americans here right now, but we are all nice and all artists. Pola and Manolo and of course Paco are from Spain. Francois is from France. The international make up of the people here changes, sometimes from day to day. Paco has friends from all over the world. Most visit for a while and then leave. Some stay on for extended periods, and some indefinitely. Right now we are a full house!! (Francois is sleeping on a mattress outside Ryan and Christines little den by the stairs.) October 9, 2001
PM. Today we started the clean and organize project of Pacos floor, where all the guests but us stay. This morning I got some masking tape from Mariano, who is back at work after being hospitalized for an ulcer. Christine and Ryan wrote everyones name on a piece of tape and placed it over one of the towel hooks. Now everyone has a specific place to hang their towel. Ryan and Souren reorganized the main room, moving shelves that were placed in front of other shelves, temporarily for an unfinished but forgotten project. They moved old abandoned belongings of previous guests, broken chairs, and stuffed boxes. They created a nicer sitting space and then they cleaned it. Haig, the Armenian oud player, tightened the shower head so it wont fall. Mariano is going to put in a bracket to hang a shower curtain tomorrow and Christine and I will go out to buy two beautiful ones as a present from our community to Paco. Yes, suddenly we feel like community. Working together to beautify our environment and help take care of Pacos house, to give back to Paco some of what he has given, has brought us all closer together. This morning, after the basket trunk with the boxes and junk piled on it had been moved, I found the book I had asked the universe for. In my dance class the other day, Concha quoted the Lorca poem about Antonio Torres Heredia, referring to my learning to walk slowly and with tranquillity/grace/attitude. Anda despacio y garboso, she said, and quoted several stanzas of that poem. I decided I wanted to find it and perhaps memorize it. I wondered to myself if Paco had any Lorca or if I should look in a book store. Well this morning I wondered what was in the liberated basket trunk. I opened it and there, on the left top was a paperback Lorca book, covered with old dust. It had the poem I wanted. I showed it to Paco and he immediately took the book to the bar and cleaned it off for me. It was a new book when it was given to Paco and it is in perfect condition and now it looks new again. Another magic moment of our adventures in Spain. This afternoon Christine showed me her paintings. She is an excellent artist and her paintings are beautiful. I am impressed. Her major influence is Marc Rothco, but I actually like her things better. Paco wants to give her an exhibition here at La Carboneria next year, at the time of the Bienal. Pacos son Pisco, who always feels organized and responsible, is also interested in showing Christines work. She and Pacos son Sergio, who works here at the Carboneria, are both artists and share a strong admiration for each others work. She would like to show Sergios things in New York when she does an exhibition there. Quiet, curly haired Sergio is also an excellent photographer. His photograph of Concha was on the Giradilla (major entertainment guide) cover during the 2000 Bienal. I have a copy of this photo on our web site. I love it so much that I used it to make the fliers for Conchas classes when she was in California last summer. La Carboneria also gives away free postcards with photos of Sevilla taken by Sergio. October 11, 2001
October 12, 2001
The first installment of my writing will be sent out eventually, when I finish the first edit. Freddies foot is mending, but it is not better yet and he still cant walk too far, which is a shame. Although, he got a beautiful pair of shoes with laces for his orthopedic inserts, plantillas which should help both his feet and his back. Were taking the bus to Jerez tomorrow to see a Flamenco show. Manuel Agujetas, Luiss older brother will sing. I am not sure who the other performers are. Bobby told us about the concert. Well spend the night in Jerez and return to Sevilla on Sunday. Were going to celebrate my birthday next Saturday (a week from tomorrow), a few days before my actual 57th birthday on Tuesday October 23rd. Rafael, Conchas husband will come to la Carboneria early and cook. Concha will get a birthday cake from Utrera where she says the best bakeries are. We will invite the people who live here, Rubina, and some of our other friends. It will be fun. We are celebrating on Saturday so Concha can come. She works on all the week days and we figure Saturday is an easier day to give the party than Sunday. Our next door neighbors called from their terrace to our window tonight to invite us to dinner Monday night. As I have been writing tonight, Freddie is playing beautifully and cleanly, sitting on the chair by our Formica coffee table, in front of the small couch we moved up here from down stairs. The couch is covered with a turquoise blanket whose short fringe hangs at the bottom by the floor. We cleaned and straightened our room last night and it looks nice. October 14, 2001
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